There are many reasons to spend time in Vienna, Austria. For starters, it’s gorgeous. Despite how much of downtown was destroyed by Allied bombing runs during World War II, much of the old city remained intact when the Nazi finally screamed “uncle.”
St. Stephen’s Cathedral is an absolute stunner and free to visit. In the winter, you wouldn’t want to miss the city’s St. Stephen’s Cathedral is an absolute stunner and free to visit. In winter, you won’t want to miss the city’s Christmas market — maybe hit Cafe Central for a Maria Theresia (orange liqueur and whipped cream jazzing up a double espresso) — and take in some music at the Vienna State Opera.
None of this even scratches the surface of the cultured trouble you can get into in this amazing city. No matter what you do with your time there, I suggest you don’t miss my favorite attraction in Austria: The Third Man Museum. It’s dedicated to preserving the history of what could be called one of the greatest films ever made. If you haven’t seen it, that’s a sin you should correct as quickly as possible, if for nothing else than the glory of Orson Welles’ Cuckoo Clock speech.
The museum is the passion project of Gerhard Strassgschwandtner and his partner, Karin Höfler. Since opening 20 years ago, Strassgschwandtner has refused any funding or assistance from local or state agencies — taking their cash would mean giving up his independence in running the place. Step inside the front door and you’ll be glad he opted to go it alone. The museum spans multiple floors — 400 square meters of real estate — and not an iota of it is wasted on frivolity. Two decades of constant collecting with only two people to catalog means some items might go unrecorded. But when I spoke to him a few years ago, Strassgschwandtner estimated that the museum housed around 3,000 items associated with The Third Man and the decade after the war when Vienna was occupied by the Allies.
The museum’s Wikipedia page gives a good accounting of its collection highlights. However, in my opinion, the main draw of the Third Man Museum is Strassgschwandtner himself: his passion for the film, knowledge of everything about its production, and deep love for Vienna are well worth the price of admission. There’s a fire of joyful intelligence in his eyes as he talks about Anton Karas’ zither (used to score the film’s music) and shares tidbits about Trevor Howard, Orson Welles, Herbert Halbik, and the rest of the cast. Letters from the film’s writer, Graham Greene, and director Carol Reed? He’s got those, and he’ll tell you all about them. Chat with Strassgschwandtner for a few minutes and you’ll feel like you’ve made a new friend.
The museum is within walking distance of the Vienna Naschmark (night market). Get on it, friendos.
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